More than ten years ago, when I started my journey into the world of tea, I never anticipated how this little tea bush would change my life and the world around me forever.
I knew nothing about the tea industry, but I quickly learned that there are two worlds of tea: one for “special tea” and one for “commercial tea.” It is precisely these two worlds that are both misunderstood by tea merchants and consumers, but there is a significant difference between them.
Special teas take us back to nature, to small tea gardens and tea masters who cultivate and grow sustainable tea. Tea that is often hand-picked and hand-processed to produce sophisticated aromas and flavor nuances without damaging the leaves. These tea farmers often come from minority groups who have inherited their knowledge and craftsmanship from their parents and ancestors before them. These teas may not quench the thirst of all tea drinkers in the world, but for us flavor enthusiasts who support sustainable quality, they are essential.
Commercial teas are grown and produced under industrial conditions to maximize yield, often harvested mechanically, packaged for convenience in trendy “silk bags,” and presented in beautiful boxes, ready for tea houses, webshops, and supermarkets.
Large plantations sell to monopolies that constantly pressure plantation owners to produce more cost-effectively. This depletes the soil, stripping it of vital minerals and nutrients, and forces producers to use unsustainable agricultural methods. By using artificial fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides, yields can be increased, but this generates negative long-term consequences for the environment. We are now seeing that the silk industry is being hit hard because silkworms living in tea-producing regions are drastically affected by the use of pesticides in tea production.
The tea industry, which produces our favorite tea brands, is experiencing constant increases in costs. They must continually develop new tea bags, attractive packaging, and find new marketing channels. The quality of our tea bags today has very little flavor and nutritional value. Moreover, it is usually blended, so we no longer know the country of origin. The lack of transparency makes it impossible to determine which country, region, or tea plantation the tea comes from.
Tea blending has always been regarded as an art form in Europe, but over the past decade, many well-known tea brands have started to taste the same, making them difficult to distinguish from one another. It has become common practice to add flavors and colorings.
Tea blended with herbs, spices, essential oils, and flowers is not a new phenomenon, but now we see sugar, chemically induced colorings, fruit, and artificial flavorings being added to tea just like to other beverages.
The latter has given rise to a wave of tea houses and webshops selling tea leaves blended with every flavor or exotic fruit. Because dried papaya and hawthorn are added to your tea, it cannot be classified as “special tea,” and this is where the problem lies.
What to be aware of when buying tea?
Actually, the same as if you were buying a good bottle of wine.
Look for or ask about the tea’s country of origin. Tea produced in China tastes different from tea produced in Japan or Sri Lanka. This is because different countries have different terroirs, meaning soil conditions, and different processing techniques, which significantly affect the flavor.
Look for or ask about when the tea was harvested – vintage and season. Terms like First Flush, Ming, or Yu in the designation are reserved for tea harvested in the spring. These teas should be sweet and delicate in flavor. The leaves are often needle-like buds or small, rolled leaves with fine hairs. The later in the season the tea is harvested, the more bitter compounds (flavonoids) it will contain – just like Danish peas.
If the salesperson, webshop, or packaging cannot answer these questions, consider the supplier to be unreliable, and it may be wise to choose another brand or tea shop.
Do not be tempted by fancy tins or tea with added flavors. It is also difficult to assess quality or flavor by smelling the tea unless you are a trained tea sommelier.
Most tea drinkers are not tea experts, so it can be challenging to assess quality by looking at the leaves, as there are countless styles and processing methods. However, be aware of dull and grayish leaves, which can be a sign of old tea, or crushed and dust-like leaves, which are often of lower quality.
A good rule of thumb is that the price often reflects quality. Buy small amounts at a time and pay the price YOU can afford, and be critical of the flavor. 25 g of good quality can yield between 24 and 60 cups.
Let your taste buds be decisive for your future choice of tea. Dare to explore teas like oolong and puerh. You will train your critical palate by trying different teas.
The commercial tea industry is enormous, with several hundred years of history and roots that trace back to the British Empire and the East India Company, so it is unlikely to change overnight. But we should consider what it